Saturday, May 30, 2009

a springtime marriage

Its time to talk food! Early spring has arrived and the one thing the comes to mind is ASPARAGUS. I just cannot get enough of this delicious veg. Early spring is the best time to eat and appreciate asparagus. It is one of those foods that doesn't fit into a basic flavor profile (sweet, salty, sour, bitter) but rather that 5th vague flavor of umami. The word umami is loosely translated from the Japanese word that means "tasty" and generally refers to foods rich in protein such as eggs, meats, cheeses and mushrooms.

Asparagus is a vegetable that should be honored, loved, and respected. It is a pain to grow (or shall I say a labor of love), and is incredibly nutritious. I urge you to eat some this spring and show appreciation to the crazy person who decided to be an asparagus farmer. Especially in this insanely wet spring we've had so far.

For those interested - asparagus demands sandy, well drained soil. Standing water can cause serious rot. And when raising it from seed it can take 3 years before you have a harvestable crop. To top it off, when cutting spears at harvest you may actually be damaging some spear tips that are still below ground. So, please be thankful for your local asparagus farmer.

So, without further ado I would like to talk about one of the most beautiful springtime love affairs and that is of asparagus and eggs. These two flavors combine so well together and are delicious at any time of day. I'm going to share a recipe for a simple asparagus and spring onion quiche that can be enjoyed at breakfast, lunch, brunch, or a simple, quick, nutritious dinner.

The combination of cream and eggs used to make a quiche is called a Royale. For this quiche I recommend 2 cups of heavy cream and 6 good quality large eggs (preferably from a local farmer or farmers market). Whisk your eggs together and slowly pour in the cream while continuing to whisk.

Season the royale with salt, white pepper, and a pinch of cayenne.

Drizzle your asparagus with olive oil and roast in a 350 degree oven for 5-7 minutes. For one quiche I would use 6-10 medium sized spears. Let them cool slightly and slice the spears on a bias. I think slicing asparagus on a bias makes them more palatable and reduces the woody texture.

While your asparagus is roasting julienne some spring onions and caramelize them in a bit of butter. Once caramelized let them cool slightly.

Fold the sliced asparagus and onions into the royale.

Another great accompaniment to asparagus and eggs is a strongly flavored cheese. For this quiche I recommend Pecorino Romano. It can be a bit expensive but the flavor is incredible. If you're on a budget substitute for a parmesan - preferably reggiano or grana (just please not one from the shaker can) Pecorino is a bit salty so remember this when salting your royale.

Once your royale is made you're ready to make your quiche. And since this is supposed to be a quick and easy recipe I'm going to say go ahead and buy a pre-made pie crust. I also recommend baking the pie crust ahead of time. Don't forget to prick the bottom of the crust or fill it with dry beans to weight it down and avoid getting air bubbles. If you'd like to make a crust from scratch and need a recipe I'd be glad to lend one!

Pour your royale into the pie crust and bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Its ready when the eggs are firm but fluffy.

Asparagus also marries well with bacon or pancetta and sauted mushrooms so consider adding one those to your quiche as well. And if you don't like such strong cheese as I suggested consider a nice white cheddar.

Quiche also makes a great hors dourve so consider purchasing mini tart shells and filling them with your royale. They bake up beautifully in about 8-10 minutes.

For other springtime uses of asparagus and eggs consider these ideas -

Egg salad with grilled asparagus

Soft boiled eggs with toast points and asparagus spears for dipping.

Use the woody ends of the asparagus to make soup/veg stock

Omelette with bacon, asparagus and asiago

Or simply grill your asparagus with a squeeze of lemon and a pat of butter alongside your favorite entree

Please enjoy this delicious vegetable this spring and let me know your favorite way to prepare it.

Happy cooking.

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