Things To Know

Okay, its finally time for the second part of my series on things every cook should have and things every cook should know. After doing some thinking I have decided to break the "things to know" segment into two parts as well. This section will focus on technique while the other section will focus on execution of those techniques.

These items are basic bits of knowledge I think every serious home cook should be able to execute. Obviously, this is just my humble opinion but I really believe they are essential bits of knowledge that can take you from a basic "housewife" kind of cook to the woman (or man) the neighbors are always asking for recipes, tips, etc. Who doesn't want to be the envy of the neighborhood? And, in this economy I think its important to run to your kitchen even more often than running to your favorite local restaurant.

In digging through my mind for this article I was taken back to my first day of culinary school so that is where I'll begin. So, sit back, read up, and expand your culinary repitore.

After reading these tidbits if you're intrigued to learn more I reccomend The French Culinary Institute's book "Fundamental Techniques of Classic Cusine" for further reference. The book is very comprehensive and approachable and the photography is quite beautiful. As I recall it was quite pricey but you may be able to find a good used copy from some culinary school kid who flunked out.

1. Know basic knife cuts and skills. When encountering a recipe you should be aware of the difference between dicing, mincing, and julienne. Although the cut of a vegetable may not seem incredibly important, if you do not cut to the specifications of the recipe cooking time and even texture/mouth feel of the recipe can be affected. Its also incredibly important to learn how to use your knife properly so you can execute these cuts without removing a finger. Good knife skills come with practice and for me, precision is always more important than speed. ESPECIALLY at home. Money isn't being lost if you're a slow home cook, so take your time and practice for perfection. Maybe your husband/wife/children/neighbors/grandkids won't care that you've got perfectly diced potatoes and onions in your vegetable soup but you'll have a sense of pride in knowing that it not only looks great, but also tastes great because everything cooked evenly because it was cut evenly. If you want to learn more on the internet this is a good photo gallery of basic cuts. Or, if you want to see a video of proper cutting techniques I reccomend this video.

2. Know Basic Methods of Cooking. After you've beautifully cut the food you're about to prepare it is important to know what cooking method to employ to get the best flavor and texture out of your food. There are several methods of cooking and you've probably heard of most of them - but do you really know what they mean? Braise, roast, stew, saute,fry, blanch, poach. There are subtle differences between each but the differences do matter. I'll provide a few definitions but then its up to you to go here

Braise - defined by Larousse Gastronomique as "a method of cooking food in a closed vessel with very little liquid at a low temperature for a very long time" The word braise comes from a French word meaning ember. Anyone who has cooked over and open fire is familar with placing a dutch oven (a braiser) in a bed of embers and covering the lid with more embers so heat comes from all directions. During the 17th and 18th centuries in France much cooking was done in this method. Today, it seems many home cooks are turned off by braising as it takes a long time. However, braising is a perfect way to utilize the not so sexy cuts of meat like brisket and shank and turn them into something tasty. As I mentioned before, in this economy saving money is key and if cheaper cuts of meat are your only option maybe you should dig out that dutch oven. The theory behind braising is for the meat to release flavorful juices into your already flavorful cooking liquid (usually a stock) so both can be utilized. Harold McGee (the God of Food Science) explains the science behind why meat becomes more tender when braised as opposed to other cooking methods here.

Ragout (this is to stew in French) stewing differs from braising in that you generally use smaller pieces of meat and more liquid. Stews are generally prepared on the stovetop while braising is most often done in the oven (but can be done on stovetop).

Roast - This is a method of cooking that employs direct radiant heat in a dry oven. Roasting can be used on all types of poultry as well as red meat cuts like ribs, loins, sirloins etc. Roasting is a relatively simple cooking method and if done properly results in juicy flavorful meats. Smaller pieces of meat should be roasted at higher temperatures for shorter amounts of time and larger pieces should be roasted at lower temps for longer time. After a roasted meat is removed from the oven it MUST MUST MUST be allowed to rest. During the intense heat of roasting the juices of the meat are forced to the center of the item. When the meat is allowed to rest for 10 to 15 minutes this allows for the juices to redistribute throughout the cut and makes for a moist meat that is easier to carve. So remember, shhh the meat is resting!

Saute - literally saute means "to jump" I think this is a cooking method most people don't quite understand. Sauteing should use relatively little fat and the item to be sauteed should be relatively dry. If the food is moist, or the pan is coated in tons of fat the item will fry or steam rather than saute. The point of sauteing is to quickly sear a food over a high heat prior to finishing the cooking process over a lower heat. Sauteing should be used for uniformly sized thinly cut foods. Sauteing shouldn't be used for thick cuts as the exterior will always burn before the interior is cooked. Some basic rules for sauteing are as follows.

-The pan must be very hot. As I learned in culinary school from a very old French man it should be "hell hot." If you feel heat rising when you hold your hand over the pan it is hot enough. Or, if the fat is shimmering you're ready to saute.
- The surface of the pan should have only a FILM OF FAT. Sauteing is not frying.
- Do not crowd your pan, if you must, cook in batches.
- Never cover the pan, this creates steam and then you're not sauteing.
-Do not shake the pan right away after adding the food. allow it to sear and it will detatch itself from the pan. Seriously, I mean it! This is especially important with meat.

Frying - Yes, it has its place. Who doesn't love fried foods occasionally? The same French chef who told me to get my pan "hell hot" also said deep fried foods are healthy. And hey, he's the expert here. As with sauteing a fried food needs to be very dry before being placed in the pan or fryer. Often a breading or a light coating of flour is added before frying to absorb excess moisture and to make sure the outer crust forms immediately and doesnt allow the meat or vegetable to absorb the hot fat.

Blanch - This is the process of plunging food in boiling salted water for a few seconds (or in some cases minutes) and then plunging into ice water to stop the cooking process and set the color. Blanching does not fully cook the vegetable so it should retain a crisp texture. Generally this is done to brigten the green color in foods like broccoli, brussels sprouts, and green beans. It also helps to speed the cooking process if you plan to continue cooking vegetables via roasting. You cannot forget to plunge your blanched veggies into an ice bath. If you don't the retained heat will finish cooking the veg and the color will quickly fade to brown.

Poach - This cooking method is most often employed with fish but can also be used with poultry. It is my least favorite method of cooking as I think it results in the most bland food. Poaching is a delicate cooking method perfect for delicate fish and fruits. The water should be held at a constant temperature between 160 and 180 degrees. This is not simmering or boiling. The liquid is usually a well flavored broth, stock, or court bouillion used to impart as much flavor as possible and must always fully submerge the item to be poached.

I am going to leave this entry with just these two items. Once you have a grasp of how to use your knife, how to make basic cuts and when/how to use cooking methods you can move on to the next segment which will be putting your techniques to use .

Thoughts

Sometimes I wish I was one of those people who could run home and blog complaints about their job every night and make up little nicknames for co-workers so as not to get caught but I just can't do that.

Lately though, I have been feeling like I am much more dedicated to my job than my job is dedicated to me. I would do ANYTHING they asked me to do, stay as late as they wanted me stay, work as many days/hours/weeks/months as they requested, but yet they seem like it is such a burden to them to help me grow as a cook. They know I want to be the best, yet offer so few opportunities that allow me to learn and grow and become better. So frustrating. The more I give the more they take and offer nothing in return.

Don't get me wrong, I love my work I'm just not so sure how much I love my job anymore. I just wish they were offering me more challenges and pushing me harder. I went to this place for opportunity and right now I feel like rather than moving forward I'm simply moving laterally. For me, its never acceptable to just be on cruise control and coast through life/work. I NEVER want to just settle. I know they appreciate all that I do but is it selfish to want challenge over appreciation? Honestly, I'd rather be pushed and proded than thanked right now.

But, in an economy such as ours I refuse to be the girl who complains about having a stable job that offers me a decent wage and insurance benefits. I am so lucky to have what I have. On the other hand when I go to my boss(es) begging them to push me harder, to challenge me more often and never to hold me back I expect to see effort on their part if they really care about my future as a cook.

Everyday I try to find the smallest opportunities to learn SOMETHING. It's becoming harder and harder. So for now I will continue to work as hard as I possibly can and prove myself as a passionate cook.

Rant over.

Reflections

Lately I've been thinking about how I got to the place in my life where I am right now. If someone had asked me 3 years ago what I'd be doing for a living my answer certainly wouldn't have been cooking. It seems crazy to get PAID to cook food.

Many of you may not know that just about 3 years ago I was in my senior year of college at the University of Illinois at Chicago pursing a degree in psychology. From as long ago as I can remember I always wanted to help people so it seemed a natural progression to go into the field of psychology.

I always loved to cook. It was something I grew up watching my grandma and my mom do and I knew good food made people happy. During college when life was stressful I would cook. It was a way to calm down and connect. Cooking was a form of instant gratification. Never a career path, always a hobby, sometimes a joke. Anytime studies got rough I would joke that I was going to drop out and open a restaurant.

During a summer away from college working as an Environmental Education director at a summer camp I had a lot of time to think. I had the opportunity to cook for a lot of staff members at the camp as well as many of the children. I knew in the back of my mind psychology was an interest not a passion and I knew in the back of my mind that cooking made me happy. The realization came to the front of my mind when a 9 year old asked me "Are you a chef?"

That question hit me like a ton of bricks. Why aren't I a chef? I couldn't formulate a reason. I spent the next several weeks going over and over this question in my head. I spoke with some friends and co-workers and made my decision.

When I returned to Chicago I made the choice to leave UIC and pursue a culinary degree at Kendall College. It was a huge crazy step but I had never felt better. I took a job as a breakfast cook at a bed & breakfast and began my new life.

Even at this point I still had no idea why I wanted to be a cook. I just knew that I loved it. I didn't know what I wanted to do with a career as a cook and was worried I wouldn't feel fulfilled without "helping people.

When the problems with Monsanto began to really come to a head for my parents I felt a lot of mixed emotions. I was scared Monsanto would sue my dad and take everything he's worked so hard for, I was angry at an evil company, I felt helpless being so far away and not there with my mom and dad, and I felt guilty for having a job that wasn't in jeopardy.

But, it was in these moments that I realized why it was my destiny to become a cook. I am the farmer's daughter who grew up to be the cook. I live in both worlds of food now. Where food comes from and where food goes. I am in the best possible place as a cook.

And, it was in those moments that I realized I can help people as a cook. This blog has become my way to not feel scared, angry, helpless and guilty. I realize more and more each day what my role is and will be. As a cook and an educator. Even in the passing moments at work when I'm able to talk about what kind of greens we are cleaning because I've seen them growing in my mom's garden. Or when someone has a question about Genetically Modified foods. I am helping people.

Thomas Keller says there is no such thing as perfect food only the idea of it. And our role as a chef is to strive towards perfection not to achieve it, but rather, to make people happy. That is what cooking is all about. For me this rings very true but for me it goes beyond making people happy with eating the food. I want people to have the experience of food.

To have just one guest who understands their meal came from a farmer's field or a gardener's greenhouse not from my kitchen would mean success to me.

So, now I am a cook and I have my amazing parents to thank for their support in my decision.


To my grandma for always cooking and letting me help

To my mom who taught me that tomatoes come from your garden not the grocery store and for introducing me to the vidalia.

And to my dad for showing me what real work is. For getting up before the sun and working until the work is done.


And, both of my parents for doing something they love even if it means they'll never be rich.

Dad, no matter what Monsanto does to us, everything you've worked for you've earned and that is all that matters.

I am a cook. Today, I understand why.

Panisse

No, not Chez Panisse, sorry Alice Waters this entry is not about you.

Google Panisse, I dare you. You'll get plenty of entries on Ms. Waters and her California restaurant but I challenge you to find out what Panisse really is.

Well, I got the pleasure of learning about Panisse from my chef Patrick Sheerin and now I'm completely enamoured with the treat.

So, what is Panisse? Its a dish that originated in the South of France. Its described by some as a pancake, a custard-like substance, even a cake. Really, it is none of those things. Panisse is simple, chickpea flour, olive oil, vegetable stock, and salt. In France it is used as a snack. Often dusted with sugar and served to children. I can't imagine it tasting great but I've never had it served this way either.

Why is Panisse great? Lots of reasons! First, the flavor is excellent. If you use finely milled chickpea flour the result will be a creamy, custardy treat on the inside of a crispy fried outside. Secondly, its a gluten free snack or side dish. At the restaurant we serve a fried bit of panisse instead of a starch with an entree. This is something to keep in mind if you have friends or family who can't eat gluten. Next, its a bit of a challenge to make and it is one of those dishes that makes you swell with a little bit of pride when you finally get it right. And finally, panisse can be manipulated and experimented with to even further enhance the flavor as you will see below.

Our first attempt at panisse was a bit of an experiment. Chef had never made one before, I had not even heard of panisse nor had our executive sous. Already we were off to great start. Pat's vision was to make a panisse that had the flavor of fennel and it was my mission to make it happen. I started by infusing the vegetable stock with lots of fennel and then went to work cooking the panisse. After a few tries we finally got the desired result. Crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside.

This month Patrick presented me with a new challenge. Make a butternut squash panisse. Fennel now seemed easy... See, squash is starchy and that changes everything. So, I set off on another panisse challenge. First, I juiced the squashes (terrible yield just for the record). I let the juice sit for an hour or two and then strained it through a fine mesh chinois. I figured that would eliminate some of my unwanted starch. I cooked the panisse, fried it, and let me tell you it was awful. Starchy and heavy and coated your teeth with orange goop. Fail.

I thought about it over night and came back to work with a plan. I juiced more squash and let it sit for an hour. I strained it. Let it sit for an hour. Strained it. Let it sit once more and strained it. Then, into the cooler it went to sit over night. The result of all this sitting and waiting and straining was a much less starchy juice. The amount of starch that settled to the bottom was startling. I guess I never knew how starchy a butternut really is.

So, with my strained, and strained, and strained, and strained again juice I then cut it with 20% vegetable stock and cooked the panisse just as I had before. The result this time? Crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside and just the right amount of squash flavor. Success! And a pain in my ass. But, this is really one of those dishes that gives you such a sense of pride.

So, now I'm sure everyone wants to run home and make a panisse for themselves so I'll tell you how. First and foremost, TAKE YOUR TIME. If you mess it up the first time thats okay. It will take a few tries to get it just right. Secondly, WORK QUICKLY. Yes, I completely contradicted myself but I mean it. Once you start cooking the panisse you have to work quickly. Make sure all your mise en place is ready otherwise the panisse will set up in the pan and you will be cursing my name.

For a traditional Panisse you will need:
1000 grams vegetable stock
400 grams chick pea flour
200 grams olive oil
salt to taste

Wisk this mixture together off the heat until there are no lumps. Now, you need to get your pan ready to pour the finished panisse into. Use a 1/4 sheet pan or an 8x8 pan. Spray the pan very well with cooking spray. Put a greased spatula (an offset works best but a flat metal icing spat is okay too) next to the pan and make sure it is close to where you will be cooking the panisse.

Then, over medium heat in a heavy bottomed stainless pan begin whisking. DO NOT use an aluminum pan or you turn your panisse grey. DO NOT stop whisking. At first, not much will be going on but if you quit whisking the mixture will begin to stick to the bottom of the pan and you will not be happy.

Once the mixture starts to boil it will come together quite quickly. Don't worry if it starts to appear to get lumpy again. If you continue whisking it will smooth out as it cooks. Yes, your arm will get tired. KEEP GOING. The mixture will get VERY THICK and VERY ELASTIC. This is exactly what you want. When the panisse is smooth, thick and elastic shut the heat off and immediately pour into your ready pan. Pour as quickly as you can. If the panisse is made properly it will begin setting up immediately as it cools. Use your greased spatula to force the panisse into the corners of the pan and smooth the top. If the panisse is resisting going into the corners of the pan or springing back a bit thats a good thing - you did it right. Smooth it as best as you can and lay a piece of plastic wrap against the top of the panisse so it doesn't get a crusty skin as it cools. Put the panisse straight into the cooler and let it chill.

To serve: unmold the panisse. It should hold its shape perfectly. If it is creamy or falls apart you didn't cook it long enough. Try again. Cut the panisse into your desired shape for slicing. I recommend using a hot knife to slice it. Dust the panisse with a bit of cornstarch or flour and fry them. You can pan fry the panisse but deep frying really is best.

Enjoy.

If your panisse comes out well I encourage you to experiement with adding other flavors. When we made Fennel Panisse at the restaurant we simply made a strong fennel broth and dusted the bottom of our greased pan with fennel seed.

The squash panisse is a huge pain but tastes great. You may be able to achieve similar results by adding pieces of squash to your vegetable stock and simmering to get the squash flavor. Without juicing you won't get the rich orange color.

When thinking of chickpea my mind immediately goes to Hummos. One of my favorite items to eat with hummos is red pepper. I think a red pepper panisse would be awesome. Someone should make it for me :-)

Happy cooking. I wish you all panisse success and a sense of great pride when you take your first bite!

Ooops!

I know I promised 2 ricotta recipes and I'm a bad person and only posted one. So, better late than never I'm posting one more.

Everyone knows Gnocchi.... the tradtional northern italian potato pasta. It is heavy and delicious almost like a dumpling. The perfect wintertime treat.

Well, in Florence they do it differently - Ricotta Gnocchi. Its light, fluffy, and delicious. Here is my version of the recipe.

You will need about 16 ounces of the ricotta that you made, or 16 ounces of a high quality ricotta from the store. Depending on how wet your rictta is you may need to drain it. If your ricotta is very wet (sometimes the homemade kind is) place it in some cheese cloth and press it. Try to get as much liquid out as possible.

Add one egg to your ricotta once you have it dry. The egg is the "binder" in your pasta. Fold in about 3/4-1cup of a dry cheese like parmesan (more mild) or pecorino if youre looking for a bolder flavor. Season your dough with salt, black pepper, and if you want a chiffonade of fresh parsely.

You will also need about 3/4 to 1 cup of CAKE flour. Cake flour is lower in gluten and will result in a lighter gnocchi. Fold in the cake flour with the cheese mixture. Do this slowly as you may not need all the flour - or you may need more. Gnocchi is really something you learn to make by "feel"


My method is this - form the "dough" into a big ball and put it on the table. Poke your finger into the ball and pull it back out. If your finger leaves a dent and but the dough still feels a bit sticky you've got it right.

Be sure not to overwork your dough as it will get tough. The best way to make gnocchi for the first time is by trial and error and a little bit of patience. Before you even start rolling your dough get a large pot of boiling SALTED water going so you can test your pasta. Once you have your dough the way you think you want it sprinkle a little flour on your work surface and roll out logs of dough about 3/4" thick. Cut the dough into 3/4" long pieces. I then like to pinch the dough into a little "pillow" shape. I find it holds the sauce better and looks cute! Put one gnocchi into the boiling water and wait until it starts to float. Once it floats another 2-3 minutes and you're ready to test. Remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon or a "spider." Taste it. If it falls apart in your mouth you may need a little more flour. If its too "doughy" maybe you over-did it and should add some more cheese. Like I said, making gnocchi for the first time is trial and error. So, adjust as needed and then finish cooking your gnocchi.




Once all your gnocchi is cooked remove it from the water and toss with a little bit of olive or canola oil. I like to lay it out in a single layer so it doesn't stick together. The gnocchi is best served right after cooking but you can also refrigerate it for a couple days.

For this delicately flavored gnocchi you don't want to drown it in a heavy sauce. Ricotta combines very nicely with fresh peas so I would reccomend making a pea coulis to accompany the gnocchi.

For the coulis you will need fresh or frozen peas and a nice vegetable stock. Simply blend the peas and the vegetable stock until you get a nice nappe consistency. Then strain through a fine mesh strainer and season with salt and black pepper. If you want to make the sauce a bit more rich you can also blend in some butter until it emulsifies.

When you're ready to serve heat some olive oil in a pan and add the gnocchi. Saute until they begin to crisp lightly on the outside. Add your sauce and rehduce the heat so your sauce doesn't break (especially if you added butter). You can serve the gnocchi just like this or you can go one step further... and I think you'll want to.

Split ripe heirloom tomatoes in half and sear on the grill until nice marks form. Set aside until they cool and remove the skin. Roughly chop the tomatoes and fold in thinly slice garlic, basil, salt, and black pepper. Form a mound of grilled tomato mixture in the bottom of a bowl and top with the hot gnocchi and pea coulis.



Delicious.

Note- the gnocchi above is shown with a piece of cripsed parmesan cheese and micro opal basil as garnish.

make your own cheese, no seriously!

I want to share this recipe for homemade ricotta cheese not only because it is incredibly delicious (SO much better than what you buy at the store) but also because of the sense of pride I know you will feel from making your own cheese. Its way more simple than you think!!

So to make your own ricotta you will need a couple things you probably don't have lying around at home....

Citric Acid - you can find this at Whole Foods or any healthfood store. Just make sure it is FOOD GRADE citric acid. If you don't have a whole foods or independent health food store in your area check your local grocery store or order it online.

Cheesecloth - you should be able to get this at any grocery store

So after you round up these two things the rest is easy.

In a large pot over medium heat combine 2 quarts of high quality (preferably organic) buttermilk, one gallon of 1/2 and 1/2, 2 tablespoons of citric acid, and a fat pinch of salt.

See I told you it was easy!

Now, you wait. Make sure the mixture never boils and just warms slowly. If you have a thermometer you can suspend it in the center of the pot. You are looking for the center to reach about 180 degrees. But, if you don't have a thermometer that's okay. You will see the curds beginning to form at the top of the pot. Once the curds have formed a "raft" covering the entire top of the pot or your thermometer has reached 180 remove from the heat and let the cheese rest for about 15 minutes.

Line a colander or other perforated pan with cheesecloth and suspend over a larger (non perforated) bowl/pan. Very carefully remove the curds from the whey using a slotted spoon or a fine mesh skimmer put the curds into the cheesecloth lined colander and allow to drain for at least 4 hours but preferably overnight. What your left with is a light, fluffy, tangy, delicious cheese.

This recipe yields about 3 or 4 cups of ricotta (I'm guessing a little here) you'll have a lot of whey waste but its totally worth it once you taste the cheese!

Once your cheese is drained you're ready to season it. For me, I usually think the cheese needs more salt. Black pepper is fabulous with ricotta and a drizzle of high quality olive oil is all you need.

Use the ricotta in lasagna, stuffed shells, or your favorite recipe. I'll share 2 of my favorite recipes using ricotta in another post!

So seriously TRY THIS its so simple and quick and the result speaks for itself.

Oh, and you can brag to your friends that you make your own cheese!

Happy cheesemaking!

Love, vanessa

life

Sometimes I get jealous of people who have real lives and work 9-5 jobs with weekends and holidays free.

And then people like chef elaine sikorski remind me of why I'm here and why I'm training myself to be a discipline cooking machine. And I am no longer jealous.

Thank you chef for inspiring me to keep pushing.

hmmm

When people ask me what I do for a living I generally answer "I work in a restaurant"

The most common response I get is "oh so you're a waitress/server?"

Then, when I say "no, I'm a cook" people always look SHOCKED and I get the following comment.

"You cook??? But you're so girly!!"

OR I get "oh you do pastries?"

What does that even mean???

Just cuz I'm a chick I'm a pastry cook???

Is that supposed to be a compliment???

I can't cook if I'm "pretty" or "girly"???

Isn't this 2009???

Yes I am a woman. Yes I cook professionally. Yes I enjoy wearing mascara, skirts, and heels. Yes, I love a good pedicure now and then. I also swear like a sailor and butcher dead animals.

I am a woman and I am a cook.
And no, not a pastry cook.